Moldoveanu Peak: A Winter Ascent to Romania’s Highest Mountain

Moldoveanu Peak, Romania’s highest at 2,544 meters, is a bucket-list destination for any hiking enthusiast. But tackling it in winter adds a layer of challenge — and magic — that makes the experience unforgettable. Here’s the story of our adventure to Moldoveanu on a crisp December day, complete with ice-covered roads, fierce winds, and a sunset that made it all worthwhile.

The Start: Burnei Sheepfold and a Frosty Forest Road

We kicked things off at Burnei Sheepfold, the trail’s starting point and a place where dreams meet reality (a very frosty reality). Knowing winter days are short, we left Bucharest before the crack of dawn — caffeine-fueled and ready to roll.

The forest road to the sheepfold isn’t exactly a smooth ride. Think potholes, rocks, and enough bumps to make your suspension cry. Luckily, no snow covered the base this time, so we drove all the way. But Mother Nature had a surprise for us: a sneaky patch of ice.

Cue dramatic music as our car almost slid into the river. But, like true mountain warriors, we whipped out climbing ropes, secured the car, and pulled it out of danger. Lesson learned: when in doubt, bring ropes.

The Trail: Forest, Snow, and Fierce Winds

The trail itself? Not technical, but winter makes everything feel next level. It starts with a climb through the forest, which is all fine and dandy — unless there’s deep snow. In that case, it’s more like a full-body workout disguised as hiking.

Up on the ridges, the wind greeted us like an overenthusiastic slap to the face. Thankfully, we’d come prepared with layers, Gore-Tex gear, crampons, and trekking poles. Pro tip: don’t skimp on gear in winter unless you enjoy shivering as a hobby.

As we gained altitude, the views were so stunning they almost made us forget the thigh burn. Walking past the frozen Galbena Lake was like gazing at a piece of frosted glass art, perfectly untouched by time. The combination of the glistening snow and the dramatic mountain backdrop was breathtaking.

The Reward: A Sunset to Remember

Reaching the summit of Moldoveanu Peak just as the sun began to set was a moment of pure magic. The sky turned shades of gold and pink, casting a surreal glow over the snow-covered peaks. It was the ultimate reward for the effort we’d put in. We lingered on the summit, soaking in the view and snapping photos, reluctant to leave despite the biting wind.

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The Descent: Guided by Moonlight

We retraced our steps back to Burnei Sheepfold, using our headlamps as the sun dipped below the horizon. Even after sunset, the sky retained a reddish hue that compelled us to stop frequently for photos. Hiking at night in the mountains has a charm of its own. I love the tranquility of winter hiking by headlamp, and sometimes, I even turn it off to let the moonlight guide me. The reflection of the moon on the snow creates a magical, otherworldly atmosphere.

What You Need to Know Before You Go

• Route: The trail starts at Burnei Sheepfold, passes Galbena Lake, and continues to Moldoveanu Peak. The descent follows the same path.
• Duration: Expect a full day of hiking, especially in winter.
• Gear: Essential winter equipment includes:
  • Warm, layered clothing
  • Gore-Tex jacket and gloves
  • Winter boots, crampons, and an ice axe or trekking poles
  • Headlamp with spare batteries
• Transportation: A high-clearance vehicle is necessary for the forest road. Be prepared for icy patches and carry climbing ropes if possible.
• Timing: Start early, as winter days are short, and be prepared to finish the hike in the dark.